Put it back in and the current draw goes to 120mA once again. After pulling fuses in the primary fuse box one by one, it turns out that pulling fuse 15, labelled backup/ACC, 40A, gives a reading of 0 mA on the voltmeter. In the past I had to replace a $5 dollar A/C compressor clutch relay (R4) to address a parasitic drain. I then opened the PRIMARY fuse box under the hood to pull fuses and relays. Now I needed to isolate the source of the drain This is how I diagnosed the parasitic drain. From what I understand, measurement in this state are recommended to be under 50mA. Using a digital volt meter set to 10/20 Amp and set to measure current in series (check voltmeter instructions), I was getting readings of 120mA after car was at rest for 10 mins. Let the electronic systems "shut down" or sleep mode for 10 mins. Engage the hood latch with the hood open to "trick" any hood sensor/switch. Pop the hood and shut all doors and light. Battery dies after sitting overnightÄiagonstics. I also checked and engaged all three motor powered latches. I was able to reduce the drain to 37 mA by checking and lubricating both sliding door latches as well as the power rear lift gate latch. I had a parasitic drain on my battery while the vehicle was off that measured a current draw of ~120 mA (instead of under 50mA). It was specific to my Odyssey but the general steps can apply to any vehicle I think if you have a little mechanical skill or inclination to attempt. Below some possible remedies for a parasitic leak. This is the second time Ive had to deal with this headache.
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